What comes to mind when we imagine a Koli woman? Typically, a woman wearing a saree sells fish on local trains or at the fish market. This has changed at least in Mumbai’s Mahim Koliwada, where over 150 women from local self-help groups (SHG) now run Street Food Hub under the name of Mahim Seafood Plaza at Mahim Chowpatty.
These women have completed the Food Safety Training and Certification (FoSTaC) program in collaboration with the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Maharashtra, to become the first all-women-led street food hub in India to receive “Eat-Right Street Food Hub” certificate and the first seafood-based street food hub in the country to be certified under the Eat Right initiative, as per the FDA officials.
The certificate will be given in the presence of Cabinet Minister of Food and Drug’s Administration Narhari Zirwal and Minister of State of Good and Drug’s Administration Yogesh Kadam on April 23 at Mahim Sea Food plaza.
Sharmila Naik (46) is one of the women to receive the certificate. Ms. Naik says this certificate is not just for the namesake, it holds utmost importance because it made us realise the hygienic practices needed to be ensured for running an eatery business. “From setting up to getting our stalls approved was not an easy job. We went through checks and inspections. Mumbai’s civic body officials have several times visited our stall and kitchen, where we cook. It was a tedious process, now that we’ve been cleared, we can mention it while promoting the hub,” Ms. Naik said.
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The hub is run by 14 SHGs, each group consisting 10 to 13 women under the Mahila Bal Kalyan Yojana programme under the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC). Ms. Naik is one of the women who set her stall in October 2023.
Koli women credited Ajinkya Paccharkar, a community development officer (planning), and Dakshta Pawar, a community organiser (planning) for bringing the initiative alive.
“The certification brings credibility and ensures hygiene, making the plaza a model for safe, sustainable, women-powered food culture. FSSAI certification mandates strict adherence to food safety standards, covering cleanliness, waste management, water quality, and food handling practices. This boosts consumer trust in the hygiene and quality of food served,” Anupama Patil, FDA Assistant Commissioner, said.
“New source of Income”
Women wearing disposable bouffant caps were busy frying fish for the customers in their respective gazebos constructed by the BMC; the municipal body had first initiated and pitched the idea of starting a women-run street seafood hub in 2021. In October 2023, women from the Koli community started the seafood stall at Mahim Chowpatty, a community space of the Koli community living in Mahim and a parking spot for Mahim fishermen owning boats. The street food hub is operational from October to May, however, this year it started in January and will end in May, owing to the monsoon.
“Eight months of running the stall give us a good income, at least we can manage ourselves independently and take care of our children’s needs,” Kavita Tandel (41), part of Mastsyagandha Mahila Bachat Gat (SHG), says. Ms. Tandel says they are able to take approximately ₹8,000 per month, but sometimes it is also low. “However, we have got a new source of income, who works as house help in the off-season,” she adds. Ms. Naik has similar sentiments to echo. She says, “I don’t have to ask for money from my husband, we are buying what we want.”
Ms. Naik used to run seafood delivery services from home. She continues her services in the off months from June to September. Ms. Naik started seafood services to support her husband and father, who does fishing. “Fishing is not as affordable as we go far in the sea compared to a few years back. It takes extra fuel and manpower. Coastal road has impacted our livelihood as well,” she added.
This initiative has given economic opportunities to women who are unemployed as well and for some, it has acted as one more source of income.
Why is this significant?
Mahim Koli women feel that the SHGs are not as effective in urban areas as they are in rural regions. BMC implementing such a project that becomes a success makes it significant, it is also generating jobs for other people in the area. “We were aloof from the idea that SHG loans can help us and other people associated with our business. We usually outsource the bhakris (Bread) which goes with fish delicacies, creating a chance for other women in the area to earn, who have toddlers,” Yugandhara Akre (41), who worked as an accountant for 15 years and now runs a stall, says.
She quit her accounting profile to look after her child. She says, this perfect opportunity for sitting at home.
The initiative has provided jobs to women who wanted to sell cold drinks, disposable cutlery suppliers from the Mahim Koliwada, and sanitation workers.
Need for Marketing
Preeti Clan (35) and Ms. Akre both amplified the need for marketing. Women did their marketing using social media. Ms. Clan said, “We wish we could do something marketing. In the first year, we had a good response, but it is diminishing.”
Women also complained that this year as the plaza opened from January onwards, unlike last year, the profits have also been low. One of the reasons for the late opening was political interference. Kavita says we need marketing support from BMC as well as limited political interference.
An ‘Eat Right’ tag for these women means showcasing their plaza as a food tourism destination, attracting both locals and tourists looking for authentic seafood of Mumbai. At the same time integrates with FSSAI’s Eat Right India movement — promoting health, hygiene, and heritage.
Published - April 18, 2025 09:29 pm IST
